1. Before you draw in all of the sides of the cooker around the semicircle, it is useful to perform a test for accuracy. Start at one side of the largest semicircle, use the wide end of your full size side pattern and make light pencil marks all the way around the largest semicircle. If the last mark is approximately on the other edge of the semicircle, continue to the next step. If not, adjust the spacing between marks a bit and try again.
2. Draw dashed lines between the largest and next largest semicircle from each of the marks you made around the largest semicircle in the previous step toward the center of the semicircle.
3. Start at each edge of the semicircle and use your full size pattern to draw in the sides of the cooker. Skip the two center sections which will become the wide side.
4. Lay out the wide side using wide side dimensions from Figure 4 or 5. Use the dashed line at the center of the semicircle as the centerline of the wide side. When finished erase or cross out the dashed line down the center of the wide side because it is not to be used as a fold line as the other dashed lines are.
5. Use a straightedge and draw in all of the dashed A1 and B1 lines on the cooker layout.
6. If there is enough material, we recommend adding about a 2 inch wide tab along the C edge on one side of the cooker reflector for use when assembling the cooker.
7. Lay out the center disk on an unused portion of the cooker material. Figure 3 shows the center disk for a 30 inch diameter cooker. Start by drawing a circle with radius equal to the center disk radius from Figure 4 or 5. Inside this circle, inscribe either a 12 or 16 sided polygon depending upon which cooker you are building. For a 12 side polygon the angles between lines to the vertices are 30 degrees and for a 16 sides polygon these angles are 22.5 degrees. Pick one vertex and draw a line between the two adjacent vertices to form the wide side. As a check, measure the width of the wide side on the center disk and see if it matches the A1 dimension for the wide side of your cooker shown in Figure 4 or 5.
Cut out the cooker and the center disk.
If you are using plastic flute board or cardboard for your cooker, we recommend laying the material on a flat surface and cutting out the cooker and the center disk with a utility knife. You may want to put scrap material under the material to protect the surface. We recommend punching or drilling a small hole at each of the intersections of B and C lines before cutting out the cooker. After the cooker has been cut out, the dashed lines where the cooker will be folded need to be scored. Use a straightedge as a guide and score the lines with a blunt instrument. Be careful not to cut into the material under the lines. Just create a crease where there will be a fold. Bend the cooker on each of the scored lines. This is best done by holding a straightedge along the length of the line and bending the material toward the straightedge.
Glue the reflective material to the cooker and the center disk.
We found that it is possible to avoid wrinkles when putting Mylar™ on plastic flute board by being careful. Place the reflector on an old curtain or sheet and spray the flute board with adhesive. Nest move the reflector with the adhesive on it and place the reflector on a clean dry surface. Cut a piece of Mylar™ large enough to cover the reflector plus four inches. Hold the Mylar™ slightly above the cooker and starting in the middle carefully press the Mylar™ against the cooker as shown in Figure 6. Trim the Mylar™ about 1.5 to 2 inches along the outside edges of the cooker. Where the edges are curved, make perpendicular cuts in the overhanging Mylar™ every few inches along the edges. Spray some adhesive onto the back of the cooker and/or the overhanging Mylar™ and then fold the Mylar™ over the edge onto the back of the cooker.
Cover one side of the center disk with Mylar™.